In a large pan over low heat, warm the olive oil. Add the finely chopped onion, celery, and garlic. Cook very gently for 15–20 minutes, stirring occasionally and adding a splash of water if the pan looks dry, until the vegetables are completely soft and translucent but not coloured.

Add the chopped bacon to the pan and continue cooking over low heat for 8–10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the bacon fat has rendered and the pieces are just starting to crisp at the edges.

Add the ground pork. Stir to break it up into small pieces but don't over-crumble it — you want some texture. Increase heat to medium-low and cook for 8–10 minutes until the pork is uniformly grey-brown with no pink remaining and the juices run clear.

Add the wine and a splash of more water if needed; you want a little bit of sauce but not swimming in it.

Bring a large pot of well-salted water to the boil and cook the tagliatelle according to packet instructions. While the pasta cooks, reduce the heat under the pork sauce to the lowest setting (or remove from heat entirely). Stir in the crème fraîche, lemon zest, and lemon juice until evenly combined — adding these off high heat prevents the cream from splitting and the lemon from turning bitter.

Drain the pasta, reserving about 60ml (¼ cup) of the starchy pasta water. Add the drained tagliatelle and the grated Parmesan to the sauce, tossing well to combine. Add a splash of pasta water if the sauce needs loosening.

Taste and adjust seasoning, adding more black pepper or salt as needed. Stir through the chopped parsley. Serve immediately in warmed bowls topped with extra Parmesan and parsley.